Machine for trimming and sewing fabrics.



I ATENTED APR.' ll',` 1905.

, y -RNEVEUL ,MACHINE PoR-TRIMMING AND SEWING FABRICS.

4' SHBBTS-SHBBT 1.

Y APPLICATION FILED MAB.. 30,1901.

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..N0.786,833.- PATBNTBD APR.11,1905.

RNEVEUX.4 v

`M-ACIIINH FOR TRIMMING AND SEWING FABRICS. i

APPLICATION FILED MAR.'30, 1901.

- l 4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

No. 786,833.V PATENTBD APR. II, 1905.

- RNEVBUX.- i

.MACHINE FON TRIMMING AND SEWING FABRICS.

y V APPLICATION FILED MAR', 30,1901. V

I ILSEBETS-FSHEET 3.

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No. '786,833'. f PATENTBD APR.' 11, 1905.-

` v E. NEVBUX. MACHINBPORTRIMMING ANDSEWINGFABRICS.

f APPLICATION FILED' Mnl 30,190.1.l

SHEETS-55H21? 4. v

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UNITED STATES Patented April 1 1, 1905.

PATENT OFFICE.r

,FORTUNE NRvEUx, or sAN AMBROGIO, NEAR TURIN, ITALY, AssIGNoR To AARONvAIL` ROWLEY, OF rRANIIroRT-oN-THR-MAIN, GERMANY.

"lvlAcl-IINE FOR TRIMMING AND SEWING FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N0. 786,833, dated April11, 1905.

, l Application filed March 30,1901l Serial No. 53,612.

4To all whom, it may concern,.-

' Be it known that I, FoR'IUN NEvEUx, manufacturer, residing at SanAmbrogio, near l Turin, in the Kingdom of Italy, have invented ming andsewing fabrics, and has for its obknives.

is an end elevation.

ject to provide an efficient device of the aboveindicated character, aswill appear from` the detailed description following hereinafter. Thefeatures of novelty will be pointed out in the appended claims. l

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a vertical section on line 1 1of Fig. 2, which is a plan of the preparatory machine. Fig. 3 In each ofthese three figures sundry portions are removed or broken away. Fig. 4is a detail view of the cutting- Fig. 5 is a front elevation of theksewing-.machine with sundry portions broken away, and Fig. 6 is a planof the same. Figs. 7 to 11 are detail views. Figs. 1 to 4and7 to 11 aresimilarly lettered, and the same lettering applies to the comb in allfigures. The mechanism for preparing the sewing consists of the comb 1,fixed to'the bed-'plate V 2 of the machine, and the device for cuttingthe edges and brushing away the cuttings, which is supported on amovable plate 3. This plate is guided by four grooved rollers 31', whichrun on rails 32, fixed to the bed-plate, and is moved by the engagementof a pinion 41 on a vertical spindle 42 with a rack 4, also fixed to thebed-plate.

` The needle-comb 1 consists of recessed needie-points 10 of somewhatwide angle, the

stems 11 of which are set in holes in a bar 12 The plate 3'carries abearing 5, in which is journaled the driving-shaft 51, carrying thepulley 52, the Worm 54, the cam 55, and the circular knife 53. Thislatter cooperates with a straight horizontal knife-blade 56, which isfixed to the plate 3.

When shaft 51 is rotated, the worm 54, engaging with the worm-wheel 43,rotates the spindle 42 and through the latter the pinion 41, which thuscauses plate 3, with the whole apparatus thereon, to travel'slowly,inasmuch as this pinion engages with the fixed rack 4. During thismovement the knives 53 56 cut off the edge of the fabric which is placedon the comb 1. When the edge has been cut olf, the fabric must bepressed down onto the needle-comb to x it securely on the needlebar. Forthis purpose the bearing 5 has an arm 21, Which carries a horizontal bar24, which is adjustable vertically bymeans of a nut 22. This bar 24carries two rollers 25 and has curved and rounded ends 26. It holds thefabric closely behind the needle-comb and to some extent presses it downthereon. The rollers 25 then lie closely on the needle-bar.

In this position the edge of the fabric is brought against the brush 6,which is xed to the hollow shaft 60. This'shaft can rotate in bearing61, but is axially immovable. It is mounted on the non-rotatingslide-rod 62, which receives a reciprocating movement from cam 55, beingfor this purpose pivoted at 63 to a bar 64, oscillated by the cam, Fig.7. A pin 65 on slide-rod 62 engages in a screw-shaped slot 66 in thehollow shaft 60, so that the longitudinal reciprocation of sliderod 62is' transformed into an oscillating motion of the brush 6. This motionof the brush removes all the ends of thread from the edge of the fabric,so that the pieces are made ready for` sewing. The bearings of the brush6 are uprights on a plate 67, which can be adjusted in position on plate3 by means of a nut-and-screw spindle 68, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, sothat the brush can be brought'nearer to or farther from the edge of thefabric.

The screws 69 serve to clamp 'they plate 67. The' return movementof theplate 3'is veffected* by the pinion 46l engaging with rack 4. This rialto be sewed has been thus put into position on the needle-comb, thelatter is transferred to the sewing-machine, where the pins 17 on theneedle-bar fit into corresponding holes 210 in a bar 20, fixed in frontof the sewing mechanism. To form the stitches, the plate 23, carryingthe sewing mechanism is moved parallel to the bar 2O along twoguiding-rails 220, fixed to the bed-plate 7. For this purpose a pinion250 engages with a rack 240 and is driven by coupling a disk 28 on theupper end of its axis with a loosely-mounted worm-wheel 27 by means of apin 260. The wheel 27 is driven by the worm 29.

The sewing mechanism may be of any approved type, provided it is ofsuitable dimensions. A simple chain-stitch machine may be used withadvantage. The driving-shaft is journaled in uprights on the plate 23and is driven by the pulley 71. On its front end are the loop-hooks 72for forming the chain-stitch. The needle 73 `in its holder 74 moves upand down correspondingly with the forward movement of the wholemechanism, so that it descends each time into the recess or groove of aneedle 10 and makes a stitch which liesagainst the front angle of thebend of the needle 10. The movement of the plate 23 is so timed that theadvance or feed for each complete reeiprocation of the needle 73 isequal to the distance between two adjacent needles 10. The pulley 71 isdriven by a horizontal rope 280 whenever the roller 281 presses the saidrope upon it.

In order that the mechanism for preparing the material may bereciproeated by hand, the worm-wheel 43 is mounted loosely on spindle42. By raising the wheel the coupling 420, which previously connected itwith the spindle 42, is disengaged, and if the hook 421 be turned overthe pin 422 in the head of the spindle the latter may be turned ineither direction by means of the handle 423, the wheel 43 being then outof engagement with worm 54.

Now what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is thefollowing:

1. The combination of a stationary rack and stationary guides paralleltherewith, a frame arranged to travel along said guides, a stationarycomb or work-holder, pinions engaging said rack and mounted totravelwith the frame, a drive-shaft journaled on the frame, connections fromsaid shaft to the pinions to drive 05 them in opposite directions, meansfor throwing one pinion or the other into operative connection with thedrive-shaft, and fabric-working mechanism carried by the frame.

2. The combination of a stationary rack and stationary guides paralleltherewith, a frame arranged to travel along said guides, a stationarycomb or work-holder, pinions engaging said rack and mounted to travelwith the frame, a drive-shaft journaled on the frame, a worm on saidshaft, worm-wheels arranged to engage said worm on opposite sides andeach connected with one of the pinions, means for throwing one pinion orthe other into operative connection with the drive-shaft, andfabric-working mechanism carried by the frame.

3. The combination of a frame and a comb or work-holder, one movablerelatively to the other, means for eifectinga relative movement of saidtwo parts, a knife stationary with reierence to the frame, and a rotaryknile earried by the frame adjacent to the stationary knife.

4. The combination of a frame and a comb or work-holder, one movablerelatively to the other, means for elfectinga relative movementl of saidtwo parts, bearings carried by said frame, a brush mounted to turn insaid bearings, and mechanism for imparting an oscillating motion to thebrush.

5. The combination of a frame and a comb or work-holder, one movablerelatively to the other, means for effecting a relative movement of saidtwo parts, bearings carried by said frame, a brush having asleeve-coremounted to tu rn in said bearings, a bar or shaft mounted to slidewithin the sleeve-core, said core and bar being provided, one with anobliq ue guide, and the other with a pin engaging such guide, and meansfor imparting a reciprocating motion to the said bar, to oscillate thebrush.

6. The combination of a movable frame, a stationary comb having teethforming a workholder, means for feeding the frame, fabricworkingmechanism carried by the frame on one side of the comb-teeth, and apresser-bar carried by the frame on the other side of the comb-teeth.

7. The combination of a movable frame, a stationary frame having teethforming a workholder, means for feeding the frame, fabricworkingmechanism carried by the frame on oneside of the comb-teeth, and apresser-bar carried by the frame on the other side ol the comb-teeth,said presser-bar being adjustable toward and from the comb, andcomprising a plate the ends of which are bent away from the comb, androllers arranged to bear on the fabric.

8. The eombinationof a stationary comb or work holder, guides paralleltherewith, a frame arranged tov travel along said guides, fabric-workingmechanism on the frame, a drive-shaft journaled in said frame andconnected with said mechanism, a pulley on said IOO llO

shaft,Y a driving cord or belt having a recti- A In testimonyWhereofIhave signed my name linear run which extends in engagement Withto this specification in the presence of two sul)` the pulley andparallel with the direction in scribing Witnesses.

which the frame travels, mechanism for feedy FORTUN NEVEUX. ing theframe, and a pressure-roller engaging Witnesses: said cord or belt atthe same portion Which is MARIO- GOPANIA,

in engagement with the pulley. MAURO GIRONE.v

